Léontine, 1890

The whole point of this Belle Époque figural brooch is restraint — sapphires, carrying a soft royal blue that seems to come from inside, and nothing more than fine millegrain. It is back-carved so the light enters from behind — the maker's quiet trick. The last owner was a house in Porto; with a note in the box naming the woman who first wore it. It asks very little of whoever wears it next and gives back a great deal.